When you're just getting started with finish carpentry, it can be easy to start to feel overwhelmed. A miter saw is an important purchase that warrants careful consideration before choosing one to buy. Not all miter saws are created equal, and a miter saw that is well designed can make a big difference in whether or not your projects are a pain or a pleasure.
Choosing and Using a Miter Saw
How do you choose a miter saw to use? Well, what type of miter saw is best for you, really depends on the intended use. Prices range from under $100 to nearly $1000. Let's review the different types of miter saws a bit to help you decide which type you need to use.
Types of Miter Saws
Standard Miter Saw - A standard miter saw or "chopsaw" as it is commonly called, pivots from a single point with the blade cutting square to the table. This saw is used to across the width of a board by swinging to the left or to the right. In this case, the face of the board lies flat on the saw table with the edge tight against the fence, but standard miter saw also will cut a bevel with the board on edge. Using a miter saw like this is the best way to go if you are putting in new baseboard in your home (as long as it is 3 1/4" or less which most saws will cut easily).
Compound Miter Saw - A compound miter saw cuts like a standard chopsaw, but the blade and motor can flop over to one side as well, allowing you to cut a bevel with the face of the board lying flat. With this saw you can cut a miter and a bevel at the same time,(a compound miter) which is commonly used for cutting crown molding as well as for cutting angles for stairs. Using a miter saw like this is the best way to go if you need to cut a larger baseboard. You will then cut it laying flat.
Dual Compound Miter Saw - A dual compound miter saw will do everything a compound miter saw, but in both directions. This is useful, because in many cases a mirror image cut will require you to make a jig, but that is un-necessary if your saw tilts both ways. Using a miter saw like this is the best way to go if you need speed and versatility. At this point, saws start getting pretty expensive.
Sliding Compound Miter Saw - A sliding compound miter saw cuts miters, bevels and compound miters like a dual compound miter saw, but instead of a fixed pivot point,the blade and motor can slide forward and backward on a rail. This type of saw can cut a much wider stock than a non-sliding saw. Using a miter saw like this is the best way to go if you need to cut extra wide stock at compound angles. Pretty much all stair builders use this type or the next type.
Dual Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Yeah you guessed it. Do I need to describe this one? It basically does it all, plus it will shine your shoes, drop stuff of at the cleaners and walk the dog. Pretty sweet. Using a miter saw like this is the best way to go if you need everything, or if you just like everybody to think you need everything. Either way your going to pay a lot for the privelige.
Using a Miter Saw Stand Setup
While you could easily set up your saw on the floor, You'd be much more comfortable and productive working at an ergonomic height. So buy a miter saw stand and use it. An added benefit, if you happen do be a finish carpenter by profession, is that relatively infrequent moving of your miter saw, once mounted to a dedicated stand, will lessen the chance of jarring and subsequent recalibration required to ensure your saw is still cutting true and square. In the long run, using a miter saw stand will result in less work and time saved.
There are many portable miter saw stands available. You can also build your own...
Make your own Miter Saw Stand
A shop-made or home-made miter saw sand can be as simple or as complex as your needs or idiosyncrasies dictate. I made one for myself that was approximately 32" wide by 96" long. It had folding legs and two 6'extensions for the miter saw that would enable me to cut the end of a 16 ft piece of baseboard without an added support. It also had a cut-out for a small table saw to drop in and the table doubled as an out-feed plat form for the table saw.
You can get by with a 16"x72" piece of plywood and some sawhorses plus some L-shaped stock supports made of plywood as well. How specialized you should make your miter saw stand depends on how much you will use it. Either way, using a miter saw stand that you made yourself is good feeling, cause you know you saved some money.
Supporting the Material - As I just mentioned, a miter saw stand should have some supports for your material. An easy solution is to make L-shaped stock supports out of plywood. You can fasten these to your table with screws or spring clamps for easy set-up and break-down.
I prefer to make extensions that have a horizontal and vertical surface just like the miter saw itself. Full 16 ft pieces of baseboard or crown molding can be easily and quickly cut using these. Constant fussing with roller supports is not an issue if your using miter saw extensions.
Miter Saw Safety
I know too many old carpenters with fingers missing. Is it machismo or stupidity that drives people to be careless with power tools? Don't be stupid. Use jigs and clamps when using a miter saw. Keep your fingers away from moving blades and above all, just use common sense. You can find a good power tool safety guide here.
Accurate and Fast Cutting with Your Miter Saw - When marking our boards, there is no need to draw a line across it. You simply need to make a "v" mark. The tip of the "v" represents your cut point. Then before pulling the trigger, bring the blade down to the wood and line up the mark.
Accurate Cuts from Well Placed Marks - Another good habit to acquire is this: When cutting material flat, make all your marks about 1 1/2" to 2" in toward you from the saw fence. This will put the blade directly on the mark, much more accurate.
Cut the Miter First - The easiest type of cut to screw up is a miter. So cut the miter first and the pull your measurement to the other side and make your straight cut.
Let the Saw Get Up to Speed - If you let the miter saw wind up before bringing the blade down into the material you will reduce "tear-out" and the chance for "kick-back". This means you will get pretty cuts and the added side benefit of keeping your fingers.
Conversely, when you are cutting smaller pieces, it is a good idea to let the saw come to a stop before lifting it after the cut. If you don't many times, the piece of material you just cut will go flying into your scrap pile, never to be found!
WARNING: I can't stress this enough. Using a miter saw can be very dangerous. Make sure your paying attention to what your doing. Don't daydream. Don't multi-task.
Miter Saw Jigs
Having the knowledge of a just a few simple jigs will make using a miter saw so much easier and safer. They make it possible to do the otherwise impossible. Some jigs are necessary to make otherwise very dangerous cuts, and some jigs just make things go so much faster...
The "Beyond 45 Degree" Jig
Many saws will cut a few degrees past 45. You will sometimes need to make cuts well beyond 45 degrees, and to do so you need to move the material, not the saw settings.
Essentially, this jig creates a "new" fence at a 90 degree angle. This will turn every angle on the saw into its "compliment". So now with the jig in place, if you set the angle to 30 degrees, you will actually be cutting at 60 degrees. Set it to 45 degrees and you will be cutting at 90 degrees. You can find out more about using a miter saw jig on my woodworking jigs page.
Cutting Crown Molding Flat or Upside Down and Backward?
It can get confusing keeping track of the angles when cutting crown molding flat. The required angle settings will vary depending on the angle of your cut plus the spring angle of the molding itself, which is the angle that the crown molding sits at once it is installed. It is far easier to cut crown molding in the upside down and backward position...
I would estimate that 90 percent of the crown molding that is installed everywhere in the world could have been cut in the upside down and backward position. It may sound like it would be just as confusing, but it really isn't. It is far faster to cut crown molding this way, and fewer mistakes are made. My How-To Videos page has a crown molding video to show this in action.
Adjusting Your Miter Saw
Over time, your saw will get knocked around a bit. it may be necessary to adjust the bevel stop or the fence. The owner's manual usually has a pretty good guide to show how to do this.
Checking your saw for square is pretty simple. Make a straight test cut on a 5" or 6" piece of stock with it sitting on edge, not flat. Then take a speed square or carpenters square and hold it to the cut. It will be obvious if it is out of square.
If your saw needs adjusting, place the sqaure with one edge on the saw table and the other edge against the blade. Make sure the square is resting against the flat of the blade and not one of the teeth. Now loosen the stop bolts, adjust the angle to the square and re-tighten.
Miter Saw Reviews
For your convenience I have created a reviews page for miter saws. This is an ever evolving process. Some will not have reviews yet, but this is where you come in! I hope this page expanded your knowledge of using a miter saw.
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